Cuba Libre
Thursday, March 3rd, 2011Telling someone I visited Cuba often provokes a surprised reaction akin to saying I vacationed at an all-inclusive resort on the moon. Inevitably, a series of rapid-fire questions ensue about this island cloaked in mystery.
At first glance Cuba seems like the aging starlet in Sunset Boulevard who proclaims to visitors, “I am big. It’s the pictures that got small.” Although the spotlight has faded, Cuba’s energetic spirit and timeless beauty still beguiles visitors. It’s easy to imagine what Cuba was like in her glitzy heyday, when Havana was the Paris of the Caribbean and the jet setting Hollywood elite, mobsters, and would be presidents frolicked on white sandy beaches and enjoyed Vegas style shows at the Tropicana.
Today, Cuba is a country full of contradictions. It is a country where the world’s most coveted cigars, too expensive for domestic consumption, are stockpiled; where the Bay of Pigs is now a beach resort; and where Dezi Arnaz, is unknown inside his native land. Mostly though, it is a place where in spite of life’s daily struggles, its gregarious and loquacious residents maintain a jovial, fun-loving approach towards life. After all this is a place where the local philosophy can be summarized by the popular toast, “salud y dinero, que belleza sobra” (“to health and money, we already have enough beauty”).
Offering a high concentration of unique museums, art galleries, picturesque colonial Spanish squares, and a vibrant nightlife makes Havana’s charms impossible to resist. The famous Malecón, a 4 km long seawall that snakes along an ocean front boulevard, is the hub of social activity. This is where children play chicken with the waves threatening to cascade over the wall and friends meet to drink rum and watch the sunset. At night the Malecón frequently turns into a makeshift stage as musicians congregate and impromptu salsa dancing breaks out.

The horse drawn wagon taxis trotting along side vintage pre-revolutionary American cars evoke feelings of nostalgia. It seems as if there’s always a “yank tank” turning the corner announcing its arrival with a roar to remind all that Cuba is the only place on earth where time travel is possible. That so many of these mobile museums are still running, without the assistance of proper spare parts, is a testament to the creative spirit and ingenuity of Cubans as replacement parts are cobbled together from Soviet era cars or are fashioned out of ordinary household items.
The absence of drugs and weapons combined with harsh penalties for theft translate into an almost non-existent crime rate. With a remarkably subtle police presence and seemingly relaxed access to the Internet, it’s easy to think that basic freedoms exist. However, the government controls nearly every aspect of life requiring permission before a citizen can purchase a car, sell a home, or even relocate!
With the collapse of the Soviet empire, small cracks in Cuba’s brand of socialism have begun to appear. Since the 1990s, Cuba has been slowly experimenting with private enterprise by allowing Cubans to operate private restaurants out of their homes, known as paladars. Casa particulares, the Cuban equivalent of a B&B, also have emerged permitting owners to rent up to two rooms in their house to tourists. In a country where the government has a history of limiting interaction between Cubans and tourists, a Casa stay provides an opportunity for a more meaningful interaction with locals while also supporting a family instead of a state owned hotel.
Despite the emergence of small private market, there is no need for Don Draper and his fellow Mad Men of the 60s as no visible commercial activity exists. Instead slogans proclaiming revolutionary virtues such as “Patria or muerte,” “Hasta La Victoria Siempre,” “Tu ejemplo vive, tus ideas perdan,” and “Fidel, estamos contigo,” are plastered on highway billboards and town walls.
Life in Cuba is about simple pleasures that center largely on music, dance, and drink. Music is the lifeblood of Cuba. The melodious sounds of the native bolero, rumba, son, and salsa, spill out onto the cobblestone streets as musicians wearing guayaberas and straw hats reminiscent of the Buena Vista Social Club play for tips. Cuba’s lively music scene compliments the rum cocktail culture. It is here that the Cuba Libre, Daiquirí, and Mojito were born. No one is more associated with Cuba’s cocktail culture than Papa Hemingway who once called Cuba home. Some of his favored haunts, still in operation today, include La Bodeguita del Medio, the birthplace of the mojito, and El Floridita where it is rumored that he once consumed 16 daiquirís in one sitting, no doubt lifting his glass in true Cuban spirit offering wishes of “salud y dinero.”
For those who want to experience a taste of Cuba in New York, the ¡Si Cuba! arts and cultural festival will be going on in New York from March 31-June 16th. For more information visit http://sicuba.org/en





















