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Posts Tagged ‘Colombia’

My Colombian Family

Thursday, December 11th, 2008

I met several wonderful people in Carta, but there are three honorable mentions for my fav Colombos:

Mi hermanita:

A/k/a Erica, the girl I met on the chiva and with whom I’ve been emailing.  To be honest, online translators have become my BFFs. It’s one thing to do the whole “como estas” business or whip out the restaurant Spanish on occasion, but it’s quite another to write in Spanish.  Tonight I had to phone a friend with E’s latest email to make sure I understood it. And other than thinking that she was telling me her favorite holiday was Christmas when in fact she was wishing me a Merry Christmas, I did a pretty good job (sans online translator muchas gracias).

Mi Abuelita:

One night we were at a bar sipping cocktails when passengers from a “Chiva rhumba” stormed the bar (essentially a night time party bus that serves free cuba libres and drops chiva riders off at a bar after it’s done.  My abuelita arrived on the scene, maracas in hand, and she danced the night away.  She was la vida de le fiesta.  We took pictures with her. She gave me here number and was like “llamarme, I’ll take you dancing.”  Who doesn’t love an abuela who invites norte americanas to go dancing? Sadly, an old guy was trying to get abuelita’s attention by dancing behind her, but abuelita got “blocked” by some young puta who made the moves on abuelo. (Please note I am refraining from using my extensive knowledge of Spanish swearwords to call abuelo names).  However, my abuelita was too good for any man that is going to cough up pesos for a common street walker!  Shame on you abuelo!

Mini-Mi:

While waiting for our fantasy island boat to depart to Isla del Rosarios and Playa Blanca, this 7 year old nina captivated us.  She was rocking an all pink outfit complete with sunglasses, hat, and flower earings. My girl knows how to accessorize!  I wish I had video of her striking her vogue poses all over the place and flashing her toothless smile (my guess is that the tooth fairy has made at least two stops at su casa).  She was chatting up everybody and she was also on her mamita’s cell a lot-kid was taking more calls in an hour than I take all week. She’s destined to be class President and Prom queen (but in a good way).

Although her real name is Stefania, we nicknamed her Punky.  H later called her my mini-me.  Two of my favorite things she did was to chat up this cute teenager…she was all over him! My chica was’t giving the little boys her age the time of day!  Atta girl Punky. Punky also sat across the from me and she kept leaning on me to see things and she started talking to me and so I had to give my Spanish disclaimer of “listen kid, I speak English. You know what her reply was? “I know English.”  I said, “you do?”  She said,”si, 5, 6,7,8.”  No clue what happened to 1-4, but maybe she was fielding calls on her cellie when Dora the Explorer was covering 1-4.  I have a picture with Punky. Couldn’t leave Colombo without it.

How I became the Mascot of a Colombian 8th Grade Field trip

Tuesday, December 9th, 2008

We took a “chiva” (city tour) with a bus full of 8th graders.  Truth be told we were kicked off of our first chiva tour after the tour guide freaked when she discovered we were not native speakers (ahem, un poco discrimination against the anglospeakers, perhaps?).  We were then instructed to catch an English speaking chiva.  We were like “great, now we’re going to be on a bus full of Americanos,” (we totally have an aversion to hanging with our paisanos abroad). However, rather than hopping on the gringo bus, we were told to get on a bus full of Colombian tweens.

At some point I became the chiva mascot.  I blame our chiva tour guide, Incarnacion, who was intent on giving the tour only in Spanish and also H. I tried to pay attention while H “phoned it in,” so he focused on me.  One time he asked me if I understood, I was like “si, mas o menos,” but I had zoned out, which of course was when he announced “Ok, I give you a test.” QUE? I’m on vacation and I was told there would be no math.  And P.S. who gives a pop quiz on a tour?  The ninos got a huge kick out of this and started talking to me and evidently about me. At some point H encouraged them to call me a gringa, a term which I was NOT happy about and H and I would hear them start dropping the gringa bomb while looking and smiling at me.  So then Senor Show-Off Incarnacion had to give us a political lesson of the derivation of the term “gringo.”  Great, just what I want a lesson on “green go home.”  Anyway, anytime I tried to wander off, the kids would grab me and point to what I was supposed to be paying attention to, but I had lost interest in (chalk it up to American A.D.D.). At times I felt like the special ed kid who gets all the extra attention.

Despite the ethnic slur by my fellow Yankee (thanks H), one girl in particular, Erica, adopted me.  She plied me with cookies and asked me all types of questions.  At one point I thought she was channeling my parents when she started peppering me with questions like, “are you married? Do you have a boyfriend? Why not?” All excelente questions Erica!  When the chiva was over she hugged me and asked for my email.  She’s already written me.  Adorable!  She’s my Colombian hermanita!

Incidentally, H and I decided to say peace out to the chiva when some Spaniards bought our chiva driver, Carlos, and Incarnaction cervezas while the tour was still going on.  Um, is there no such thing as tort liability in Colombia?  We left and headed straight to the Cafe del Mar for some cocktails of AWESOMENESS!

With Love from Cartagena

Monday, November 3rd, 2008

Hola from Cartagena. We arrived in Cartagena via Panama on Wednesday. P.S. Panama by far has the world’s most boring airport. However, if you love Lacoste, bad American chocolate, and are in dire need of electronics then that airport is for usted. So after a lengthy layover in Panama, I was thrilled to arrive in Cartagena. Yet I can’t help but think that Colombian customs wasn’t as happy to see me. I knew I’d get profiled because I look Colombian (I was told by Colombian friends they might think I was a rich girl from Cali or Bogotoa). While H breezed through customs, I on the other hand got repeatedly asked questions in Spanish, despite me repeatedly telling 3 different customs agents that I don’t speak Spanish that well (I honestly got the feeling they thought I might’ve been lying). They asked where I was staying, if I had friends in Carta, how much money I was bringing into Colombia, and I was even asked why I was there. Nothing says “bienvenido a Cartagena” like “why are you here?,” but I couldn’t exactly say “don’t worry, I’m not here for the llello!”

Despite my initial greeting at the airport, I fell in love with Cartagena almost as soon as I arrived even though it was humid, muggy and lightly raining. What can I say about this city, but that I’m utterly captivated by it. We are staying in el Barrio San Diego, which is in the old town. It’s a colonial townhouse that has turned into a chic, intimate hotel. The old town of Cartagena reminds me of an upscale New Orleans, i.e., great french quarter like architecture, minus the tacky tourists places and the Mardi Gras mentality. There’s a great vibe here. It’s a rhythmic town. Music is frequently streaming from restaurants and people’s homes (right now I can hear some Cuban music from someone’s place down the street) and when you can’t hear music, you can hear the sound of the horses hooves clip clopping down the cobbled stone streets as the horse drawn carriages pass by.

It is so relaxing here that I find myself picturing myself living an ex-pat’s life. There is something that really draws me to South America. I have often said that if I ever go on the lam, that this gringa is heading to South America where my American dollars go far, the people are beautiful, and they know how to enjoy la vida. Carta and Buenos Aires are top contenders. Before last night I would’ve said BA had it in the bag, but considering that I had the best steak of ma vida last night at Cafe San Pedro and that these people REALLY know how to make a mean mojito, I might have to reconsider (even if los hombres are mas guapo in BA). Oh and did I mention that Aguila beer is my new favorite…not only is it a mere 75 cents a bottle, but it is muy delicioso. I discovered this when we went to our “local” bar and watched Real Cartagena, the local football team, win 3 nil. We thought that was a good thing, but apparently someone at the bar wasn’t happy because when they scored a goal one guy grabbed an umbrella and charged the tv as if he were going to attack it and called the tv a “puta.” Um, ok. He saw me laugh and then he high fived me. Thank God I didn’t cheer when Real Carta scored as that would NOT have endeared me to the patrons.

H and I have allocated our responsibilities…basically she is in charge of navigation and I’m in charge of communication. I’m amazed at how far my 4 semesters of spanish at Baruch has gotten us. Our hotel staff only speaks spanish, which has at times been very comical as there can be minor misunderstandings, i.e., H asked them to do some laundry in cold water and someone brought her a bottle of cold water. I translated what the miscommunication was all about and we all had a laugh. However, all in all, everything is going well.

More on how I met a French guy from Bordeaux and, um, actually had a “date” with him the next day…how I bonded with these tweens on a Chiva bus (tourist bus) and became the 8th Grade Classes “Mascot” and how I wound up at a bar filled with prostitutes (who knew Cafe Habana was so popular with the working “ladies?”), but as for right now, I’m headed to take another dip in the pool.

Ciao,

Shakira

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